Sunday, 6 April 2014

Sunday 6th April - Freecamping on the Bay of Fires

Yesterday we visited our firiends again, and had a look at the spots that were free along the beachfront at Swimcart Beach on the Bay of Fires.  There were several spots free this time.  We packed up this morning, filled our water tanks, charged all our electrical things such as phones, laptops, etc, and set off to see whether any spots were still free.  There  were, including one we had particularly liked just two down from Marilyn and Richard's.  We are tucked in among the bushes and quite private, with our own path down to the beach.

This is the view towards one end of Swimcart Beach


And this is the view looking towards the left and the other end.  I am frustrated with the colour in this photo, the sea is actually really turquoise today and as I type this the clouds have cleared and the sky is clear blue.

And this is what I see standing at the side of the annexe looking out - the edge of the awning is at the top of the photo.


As I've said before, we have our own bathroom (miniscule though it is, but it is adequate to have a comfortable shower, and it has a toilet and handbasin) inside the van; our stove works on gas and our fridge is supposed to but won't at the moment so I'm glad we have our portable fridge which we are running off our 12V battery.  There is a toilet in the park not too far away so it is handy for the daytime and we filled both our water tanks before we left this morning so if we are careful we will have plenty of water for a week.  There is a pump that pumps water when we need it and hot water for showers or bucket washes is heated by gas.  So we aren't short of anything we need.  We will use Marilyn and Rick's solar panels to recharge our laptops, wi-fi, phones and camera batteries and we haven't a 12V television but that's okay because even though we have a tv and DVR with us we haven't so much as plugged them in or set them up for the whole trip so far and haven't missed them one little bit.

Ah!  It's such a hard life being a Grey Nomad, but someone's got to do it J

Friday, 4 April 2014

Thursday 3rd April - The Gardens and Eddystone Lighthouse

Peter insisted I go to the doctor's on Tuesday to have my knee and shoulder checked again.  The doctor said he is sure it is just soft tissue damage which can take up to eight weeks to heal, and to give it another couple of weeks.  If it hasn't improved by then I'm to come back for an ultrasound.  During the afternoon Peter and Richard went out looking for birds to photograph and Peter came back with a whole series of pictures of some New Holland Honeyeaters.

Here it has it's head right in the flower sucking the nectar.  They have long tongues like all honeyeaters.

I like this one with a group of them together though it's not technically as good a photo as the first.

 Then on Wednesday it wasn't a pleasant day so we caught up on things such as emails and letters and I helped Marilyn with her crochet.  We'd bought a crochet hook and some cotton on Monday so that I can teach her how to crochet and she is starting off with a towel topper.  Rick and Marilyn had planned to go freecamping by now but the Forestry Commission is burning off at the moment and the smoke is really bad all along the Bay of Fires.  Peter and I went to go to have a look at Beer Barrel Bay on Tuesday but hadn't gone far past the caravan park when the smoke started to make my chest tight and I began to cough so we turned back.

On Thursday they eventually did go out to Swimcart Beach and have a lovely spot there right on the beach.  We went out to visit them.
View from in front of their caravan
Their caravan set up - I have no idea what the black bits covering part of the lens are, sorry!
We had taken our lunch with us and after we had chatted for a while then all had lunch we went to The Gardens, another bay a bit further up the Bay of Fires.  I looked quickly and saw that it there were rocks and quite an uneven path so didn't keep walking



 but Marilyn and Rick went around the point and  saw a beautiful sandy beach with really blue water and soft, fine, white sand so I wish I had persevered and gone anyway.  Peter was busy photographing shore birds so he didn't go either.

Then we went on a long drive to Eddystone Point to see the lighthouse there.  This involved driving along a dirt track that said '2WD with care'.  I wouldn't have wanted to risk a 2WD on that track, that's for sure!  We were glad we were in a 4WD as we tackled the washouts, potholes, ruts and generally poor condition of the surface.  After a long time on that road we came to a t-intersection with no indication of which way to go.  We turned right and that road while at least being wide enough for two cars to pass, was also a dirt road with a rough, corrugated surface.  A kangaroo jumped across the road in front of our car at one point.  Fortunately far enough in front - and very fast, crossing in just three bounds - that there was no danger of hitting it.  Good news for us as well as the roo!

The road that was the turnoff to Eddystone Point had at least been graded recently for part of it at least so finally we had a smoother road for that section.  It seemed to take forever but eventually we reached the point and the lighthouse.  I really love lighthouses, they are romantic in some way.  I have one in 1/12th scale that I haven't decorated yet - I guess because at first I wanted it to be in period but to be in period it wouldn't be realistic to have people living in it so I came to a standstill.  Now I think it will be a decomissioned lighthouse that has been repurposed as a holiday home.  Back when I bought it and the Keeper's cottage I wasn't interested in contemporary furnishings, only period.  Now I am more inclined to have things more contemporary but not ultra modern.
This lighthouse was built in 1889 and the light has a range of 26 nautical miles.  The odd thing was that further out near the edge of the land was this (below).  It appears to have been a beacon of some sort at some time but there is no indication of any sort what it was.
It isn't possible to climb into the lighthouse of course, but since it has steps you can climb higher than usual.  So we got a bit of a view from the top of the steps.

The return trip was shorter because we took the direct route back to St Helens instead of going via Swimcart Beach.  As we rounded one of the bends in the National Forest we saw a wombat in the middle of the road but it trundled off into the bush at the side of the road before we had a chance to take photos.  It was really nice to see a live one - until now the only ones we've seen in the wild are the dead ones by the side of the road.

It was 6pm by the time we reached St Helens so we bought fish and chips for tea.  We were really tired after quite a lot of driving today.

Sunday and Monday 30th & 31st March: Freecamps, waterfalls and lovely streams

A fair bit of the drive to St Helens from Bicheno is along the coast or at least gives views of the coast so it is a pretty drive.  We booked in at the caravan park for a couple of nights and after lunch drove out to the Bay of Fires to have a look at the freecamp area.  One of the places listed as a freecamp is now a day-use only.  a second had a lot of nice spots with beautiful views of the ocean - all full - and very rough roads that Peter doesn't want to take our caravan on.  The third was very crowded and didn't have a lot of spaces with views - most were quite a way further in, and there were heaps of people crowded in there.  We're not sure what we'll do yet, we'll make up our minds when we see how things go out at the freecamps after Marilyn and Richard move out on Tuesday.

Monday 31st
Our drive to St Columba Falls took us through both farmland and forest, along the by now familiar type of road: both winding and hilly.  The land has greened up a bit after the rain.  The road became even more winding and narrow as we entered the State Forest near the falls, the trees meeting overhead in places.

St Columba Falls is considered by some to be Tasmania's most beautiful waterfall, being a 90metre (295 ft) long cascade.   To reach it according to the brochure you walk through ancient rainforest 'studded with colossal tree ferns, sassafras, myrtle and beech trees to a swiftly flowing creek with beauty that will take your breath away'.  The stream certainly is beautiful, cascading over the rocks but the part that took my breath away was the walk back uphill because Peter had my puffer and he had gone on ahead J !

From the roadway you could hear the thundering of the falls and in fact could see the top part of it from the parking spaces.


It's not a long walk through the rainforest to get to the falls, though quite steep. The tree ferns were enormous and the ferns and mosses were fresh and vibrant after the recent rain that has fallen over so much of Tassie.  So beautiful.


The stream was gurgling along over the rocks and it is a shame that it never looks as good in a photo as it does in real life because it was very pretty indeed.


When we arrived at the falls they were indeed spectacular even though its not winter, when the maximum amount of water passes through them and presumably covers all the rockface instead of passing either side of it.

In that photo above you can just see that the water divides at the top and a second half goes down to the right but it was very difficult to get that part in a photo, it was pretty well hidden by the rocks.  I'd love to go back after a good week's worth of rain and see what it is like when it is flowing properly.

As usual it took us a couple of hours to do this 1/2 hour return walk because we took so many photos: the waterfall of course, but also the creek, tree ferns, other ferns, mosses, lichens, fungi, etc.  Richard has some super lenses that bring up incredible detail on fungi that were only around a couple of millimetres (an 1/8th of an inch) across.  When you see them on the computer screen these tiny things look as though they have been turned out of a fluted jelly mould and have a little blob of jelly on the top - they are exquisite.  But my camera and even Peter's camera doesn't catch that much detail, sadly.  However I did get some fungi and they will be useful reference material for forest landscaping in miniature scenes.


These were tiny, tiny little things that weren't much bigger than little beads



We had lunch in the cars even though there is a picnic area because the seats and tables were very damp.  And we had a long chat with a couple from Florida, US.  They live on a 2-masted ketch 33ft and spent five years sailing around Europe and also have a caravan which is huge by Australian standards, I think they said 36feet but we can't remember exactly. They tow it with a Chevrolet 150 truck.  And they were asking us about freecamping in Australia.

We then set off to have a look at Ralph Falls.  We crossed a bridge over a lovely stream and found that the track further ahead was very narrow.  So narrow in fact that if a vehicle was coming the other way there would be no way of passing them.

So it was off back to Pyegana and the Holy Cow Cafe with its cheese tasting and sales.  All the cheeses are made there and many have won prestigious prizes.  They certainly were delicious and of course we bought several kinds: a mild cheddar, tasty, one with tried tomato and one with herbs added.  We also bought some crab apple jelly.

The fields around here are nice and green after the rain and we sat outside the cafe and ate an icecream made from their own milk on the premises.  We had double cones: mine was a scoop each of  wattleseed and vanilla bean; Peter had pepperberry and wattle seed; Nathan had wattle seed and leatherberry honey; and Marilyn had lemon myrtle.  Rick had a milkshake, just to be different.  While were sitting there we watched their cows wander in to be milked.  They are all computer chipped and just come in whenever they want to and the whole procedure is mechanised and recorded on the computer. Marilyn and Richard and I wandered down and had a talk to a bloke who was working there and asked some questions.  There is a brush attached to the wall, it looks like a small version of the brushes you see in car washes and the cows know just how to position themselves to have the desired part of their body given a good scratch with it.  Some just go under it and have a quick back scratch, others like their head or faces done.  One cow stayed for a good ten minutes going over her back several times, her face, head, and then starting over again.  She had a wonderful time.  The cows are rewarded for coming in to milk not just by the relief of being milked but also by being fed some grain while they are standing there in the stall.  If they want extra grain there are a couple of other stalls where they can go and eat some more without being milked.   They are all very happy cows.  When they are ready to leave the gate automatically opens to guide them into a different paddock so that the three groups of cows are rotated around paddocks.  I had seen stories about similar setups on Landline so was particularly interested in seeing it live.  What a difference from the days when I used to help my great grandmother with her dairy farm on the Manning River, Taree!  I well remember one Christmas holidays when my brother and I had been given cowboy/cowgirl outfits and I was in the dairy while milking was going on, helping Grandma and one cow lifted her tail and dropped dung right down my brand new cowgirl suit as I passed behind her.  I was not amused, to say the least.  But needless to say, Grandma was.

Saturday 29th March - We feel on top of the world........

After a day of good soaking rain on Thursday, yesterday started off fine and sunny.  But no sooner had Marilyn and I put out all our washing than it clouded over again and started to rain.  So we re-hung it out under the awnings of our caravans.  Today it is still cloudy but fine and we went for a walk up to the lookout

It was much steeper and rougher than we expected with lots of steps and Nathan rated the walk as 0/10 -   he wasn't impressed at all.   But the view of course as usual from both lookouts was impressive and the rest of us all felt it was worth it.




We also had a look at the blowhole but it wasn't doing much today.  Peter took a photo of it the other day when it was performing a little better - blowing up about 4 metres but it still wasn't the most impressive display.  I guess the tide and winds etc weren't the right combination.


Oyster Catchers
The beach area has a lot of these colourful red rocks
The birds in the track leading to the beach where the blowhole is were really good though and we spent ages trying to get photos of them.  They flit so quickly from branch to branch it is difficult but we did get a few good ones.
Yellow Throated Honeyeater, found only in Tasmania
Grey Fantail
A Little Wattle Bird, enjoying the nice ripe berries
A tiny Silvereye doing the same.  These berries were about 0.5cm across 
After a very late lunch Peter, Marilyn and Richard went for a walk along the foreshore which also had some uneven rocky parts.  I didn't go with them, my knee was sore after the earlier effort up to the lookout, so I stayed at the caravan with Nathan.

Wednesday, 2 April 2014

Monday to Wednesday 24th - 26th March: Bicheno

On Monday we took advantage of the sunny day to do the washing then I spent the rest of the afternoon catching up on letters to the family and printing out Nathan’s letters to his friends.  It will be good to get them posted off tomorrow.  Peter emptied the car boot and rear seat and did a major tidy-up in there so that it is organised properly again.  We were tired tonight after a full day and are ready for bed. 

On Tuesday we slept in despite having a reasonably early night.  I still had to print off the family letters and get them bundled up to post this morning.  It takes quite a while to do that.  The electricity was off in the caravan park between 10am and 2pm for a major update, and I just finished printing off the last of the letters when it went off.  Good timing! And we did some organising in the caravan too.  We tried ringing Richard and Marilyn again but without success.  We were about to go to have a look at the blowhole and see whether it is performing well after lunch when Richard and Marilyn rang us and they were at Swansea, visiting the Bark Museum there.  I was phoning our daughter and then Richard and Marilyn arrived.  It is good to all be together again.

After the glorious weather of the last two days it was cloudy and overcast on Wednesday. But the forecast for the next few days is worse, so we set off for the Freycinet Peninsula to spend the day walking on the trails there.

When we reached the Visitor’s Centre in Freycinet National Park however we found that instead of the walk to the lookout over Wineglass Bay being okay for Nathan, then 300 steps to the beach below like we had read in one of the guide books, the track was in fact steep, slippery, and had 600 steps.  So to my great disappointment Nathan and I waited in the car in the carpark at the beginning of the Wineglass Bay track while the other three went on that walk. 

Marilyn tackling the climb and some of the 600 steps
I will be so pleased when my knee is less painful!  There is no way it could cope with that number of steps even now, 2 ½ weeks after being hit by the car.

It is around a 1 ½ hour walk and they were back in good time.  By 11.45 it had started to rain and continued to do so for the next ½ hour.  When they returned there were two Bennetts wallabies in the carpark which despite signs everywhere saying not to feed the wildlife – were obviously well used to being fed.  
'If I look really, really cute, perhaps will you feed me?'
'Does anyone have some food?  Someone? Anyone?'
Peter took photos of me patting one of them.  They didn’t even bother moving out of the way of cars driving through the carpark and Peter had to urge one out of the way so that an American lady could get her car through.
No, I don't have any food for you.....
But you like having your head scratched, don't you?
It’s a shame that the day is so grey – the view from the lookout over Wineglass Bay is pretty spectacular but obviously doesn’t look its best today.  In the postcards the colours are vivid and the blue of the bay is a stunning blue - obviously taken in the best of conditions, unlike today.



Time for a rest at the top
Kanga enjoyed relaxing with Peter
We drove on to Cape Tourville and had lunch in the car because it was still raining.  By the time we’d finished lunch it had stopped raining and we walked the circuit, with a view of lovely salmon-coloured cliffs and the ocean which was a silver colour on one side.   The rest was grey, with just a stretch of blue along the horizon reflecting a blue sky further out.

Then we returned to the Visitor’s Centre to photograph Richardson’s Beach and the five mountains called The Hazards.  This morning Peter, Rick and Marilyn had climbed between the first two of these nearest the ocean.  Marilyn particularly loves this place and wants to come and stay in the camping area there on another visit. By  now the sky had cleared and Richard jokingly kept saying he wanted to climb the mountain again.



I went with her and walked through the camping area, which only has 20 sites, and we chose which ones we would ask for if we do come again. 

Peter and Richard spent a long time trying to get photos of some birds in the scrub near the Visitor’s Centre on our return and Peter was happy to get these.
Flame robin hiding his head from the camera - he's a shy boy!
Scarlet Robin or flame robin?  His colour changed according to where he was
We all decided that afternoon tea at the Lodge sounded a good idea so off we went for scones and hot chocolate.  The view from The Lodge is superb.
View from Lodge - looking at the beach above but looking from the opposite direction
And the scones were huge and delicious too – none of us felt like much for tea tonight!